Mamiya C330

dazdmc

dazdmc

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Anyone here have one?
I've just dug mine out and I can't get the shutter release button to work, it feels like it's jammed. I have checked the usual and removed the lens which fires just fine. I can't remember if you have to have film in for it to work?
 
Thanks for the reply Ken, but I've checked all of that already. I think I just have to order a couple of rolls of film and try it loaded, if it still doesn't work then I'll have to get the screwdrivers out. Since getting back into photography via digital my interest in film has started coming back, got my first roll of HP5 hanging in the shower cubicle as we speak and I'd really like to get the mamiya and yashicamat back out and working
 
For these types of cameras, you have to put the dial into Multi Exposure mode to fire the shutter if no film is present
 
Thanks Dean, I can indeed get it to fire in Multi Exposure mode, although everything is a little sticky and slow through lack of use. If I can't find a service manual then I think I might send it off for a good clean and service. The 80mm lens doesn't always reset after firing it but they're usually pretty easy to get going again with a bit of lighter fluid in the right places. The seals on the film door and the bellows look in good condition so I think it's worth cleaning up and getting it back into action along with the Yashicamat 124g :)
During my search for answers I have found these cameras are selling for considerably more than I paid for them!!! I think I only paid £40 for the Mat and then paid for custom leather panels, the C330 I paid £90 including the 80mm lens (although this was a good price from a friend).
I think I'm going to have to dig out all the other kit with a view to selling it on to fund some film!!!
 
I used the Mamiya TLR cameras years ago, did dozens of weddings and portraits with the 220f they are a great camera, little to go wrong, mine never had any problems, so get it working and keep these classic cameras going, in fact if anyone has one to sell I would consider buying one to add to my collection of film cameras :)
 
It is possible to lock the back so you cannot open it. Oooops, yes it was me with a late 220 (not the F model) I cannot for the life of me remember what I did, but it had to go away to get it back to working order. Was it a one off or was it an inbuilt fault - I don't know.
 
John King said:
It is possible to lock the back so you cannot open it. Oooops, yes it was me with a late 220 (not the F model) I cannot for the life of me remember what I did, but it had to go away to get it back to working order. Was it a one off or was it an inbuilt fault - I don't know.
Click to expand...

I used the C series from mid 1968 to the present time John and I think it must have been the C220f model. This model had a door opening/closing mechanism actuated from a couple of buttons on the LH side of the camera which, if I recall correctly, was unique to this model and did have issues, all the other C series had the simple sliding button at the top centre of the door. I've added a couple of images to show the difference, they may be of use to others also.

Mamiya C220
C220.jpg

Mamiya C220f
C220f.jpg
 
I decided to take the plunge and delve a little deeper and I have found the fault. I might even be able to fix it if I can manage to remove the broken part and get a replacement or braze it with some silver solder. I might even be able to make a new part once I can get into my shed. If anyone has a scrap one they would like to sell for donor parts I'd quite happily take it off your hands. I know that ain't going to happen but thought I'd put it out there just in case :)
 
I can't make out what it is from your picture but I'm glad you've located the problem. :) I've been on the lookout for a scrap camera (just in case you understand) for years and had no luck, hopefully you will have better.
 
sorry for the colour photo but it shows better, I never thought to move the bellows out of the way to get a clearer shot.
As you crank the film advace it turns the cog which in turn moves the broken arm up and down. On the end of the arm there is a lever atached that has a small rack and pinion on a shaft, this shaft transfers the movement to the other side of the camera where the cocking lever for the lens is. Beacuse of the broken bit the cocking lever is not going fully home (up) and the whole cycle can't be completed and reset the shutter lock (in camera body).
I have gently squeazed the broken bits back together and it seems to be holding for now, I'm hoping to put a roll of film through it today and develop it this afternoon before I go any further with expensive repairs. If I can get it working easily/cheaply then I'll keep hold of it, if not I'll hand it to someone who has the time and patience to bring it back to usefulness. I still have the Yashicamat 124G to play with and satisfy my medium format urges.

busted.jpg
 
I don't mind the electrical either really, well at least the older stuff. I served my apprenticeship in an electronics factory as an electrical engineer but my role was multiskilled. We had a well kitted out machine shop with lathes, milling machines, surface grinders etc and we were all expected to be able to use them, a lot of the machines we had in the factory were either too old to find replacement parts for or were custom made and fabricated by us. I know some people say "jack of all trades, master of none" but it has served me well and I've never really been out of work. It also allowed me to bring my grandfathers old Minolta rangefinder back to life, no replacements batteries for the old mercury type. I tracked down batteries of the correct voltage and turned some brass adapters to allow me to use it. One of my other hobbies it making and restoring vintage shaving equipment, things like double edge razors, shaving brushes etc and I'm lucky enough to have a lathe and small milling machine in the shed :)
 
Now I see, probably one of the most common issue with these cameras. That broken cam follower is under tremendous strain, as is the cam pin itself because they have to transfer the energy from the winding crank down the toothed rack which in turn rotates a small shaft running along the bottom RH side of the camera which in turn rotates the cocking ring around the taking lens.The original grease in these cameras turns very viscous, increasing the strain on the cam pin and follower. It doesn't take much extra effort on the winding crank to either snap the pin off or break the follower as in your camera.

I don't know offhand anyone that repairs these cameras in or around Australia so noting your machining abilities it may be worth your while trying to fabricate a new part rather then repairing the old one as the original metal is very brittle and I think you might just transfer the stress to another part of the follower. Crucially though it needs a good CLA to get rid of the old grease - I use a light lithium-based grease on mine.

Good luck with the repair and if all else fails you can disable the auto-cocking mechanism and continue to use the camera. This may be of some help:
 

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  • mamiya_c220_pro_repair.pdf
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Thanks for the info Keith, most helpful.
I reckon I could silver solder it, if I can get it out without breaking anything that is!!! But as you say it will be pretty brittle and prone to breaking again. Either way I think it's worth a shot.
ps, I wish I lived in Perth, Australia as would be a good bit warmer than it is here in Perth, Scotland ;-)
I used to get my repairs done at a place in Glasgow, I'll have a look and see if I can find their website again
 
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